Following massive demand (well, two or three people, anyway) I'm announcing that I'm prepared to do modification work to empegs, ie. soldering and mechanical work. I can do the majority of SMT component modifications posted on the board.(the stereo spread mod, the L/R Front rolloff mod, the Dimmer problem mod) and have built both the illuminated buttons and rather tricky Ring 'o' LEDs board with sucess.

I have updated my soldering gear (I bought the correct size tips with the right temperature rating and got some better tweezers) so I'm ready to rocket! Cost is E15 per hour, flat rate. You have to trust me to be honest about the billed hours: it seems like the three major mods are about 1 - 1.5 hours (including disassembly and reassembly), the illuminated buttons about one hour if the resistor pack is already on, otherwise add more time if I have to fit and test resistor packs first. The round LEDs board takes around an hour to build and test, and about another hour to properly install and test. If you think these times are excessive, it's because I am being paranoid and taking my time to do it properly with tests along the way to ensure the unit isn't going to be knackered by me powering on with a dodgy connection or some such. Believe me, I worry about this - if you still think the times are excessive and I'm trying to rip you off, well, that's your opinion - you are welcome to try it yourself of course . Obviously, it's cheaper to get all your mods done at once to save on repeated disassembly and reassembly/postage costs.

For residents of the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg or France (or anywhere else for that matter if you're brave enough - the Campanille hotel where we hold the European owner's meet is about 200m away), you're welcome to drive up here with your unit as long as you give warning and make an appointment by email. If you want a Ring o' LEDs board doing, I would advise you to post the kit to me first to allow me to build and test it before you come to visit, otherwise you could be kicking your heels while I put it together. It would be a good idea to insure it against loss when posting.

If you want to send your empeg by post from any location in the world, you will need to send your unit by insured courier delivery (properly packed, preferably in the original empeg posting box which is designed for the this purpose) and pay for a return collection under the same conditions. If the unit arrives damaged and non-functional you will be notified immediately but I'll accept no liability for damage in this situation. Repairs must be arranged prior to any modification work in this case.

If I damage the unit in my posession, I will pay to have it repaired, otherwise it's your own risk. Again, you have to trust me on this, but I have now sucessfully modified my fourth unit without problems, and so far everyone's gone home with a smile.

I will also be building Tuner kits (as and when they become available) at the same hourly rate. As yet, I haven't built one so it's not possible to give you an estimate on the number of hours it will take (and therefore the cost), but they are through-hole rather than SMT and should be easier (and therefore quicker) to build. They will be tested. If you want to use this service, then either instruct Patrick to deliver it to me when ordering, or post it on yourself. You will need to pay for insured return postage in both cases. Again, if I knacker it, I pay for it, otherwise your own risk. As soon as I have done one I will post here to give pricing indications based on the time it takes.

All payments must be received first prior to return of any sent materials.

In all cases if you want mods done, get in touch first by email, either through the board or direct to me.

I must say that the transparent buttons mod is a seriously piece of stuff - kudos to Brian Mihulka.

ehm... sorry, what are the "L/R Front rolloff mod" and the "stereo spread mod"? I did a quick search on the forum and found nothing.

I can recommend Rob to anyone who want to mod their Empeg, but can't do it themselves.
I'm one of those three people Rob mentions and I can assure you that he is very qualified to do all those mods. I was happy to pay every cent he asked for a job very well done.

Thanks again Rob, those LED's are still shining bright !!

Hey man, what is it? A 316i, 318i, 318is, 318ti, 323ti or 325i? Or maybe a 3xx tds? Or something else?

... sorry, what are the "L/R Front rolloff mod" and the "stereo spread mod"? I did a quick search on the forum and found nothing.

Why does my Mk2 player have poor stereo separation?
Why doesn't my player play very high frequencies?

The FAQ texts for both items references having an early MK2 player. I don't have the stereo separation problem so does it necessarily follow that I won't have the HF rolloff problem too?

I guess that if it was possible to identify vulnerable players in either case then the serial number ranges would be mentioned in the FAQ?

Well, Erlend had got the correct Zero-value SMT link on the board, but the "rolloff" caps were still mounted, and (IIRC) his was a moderately late machine.

Erlend, what was your serial number again?

Very generous of you to say so sir. My pleasure.

ok, I should have done a quick search on the faq, too
Thx Tony

It's a 1994 316i. Couldn't afford more at the time. But I've been very happy with it. Rides like a dream. (just lacking a bit more "punch" sometimes, but I can live with that....for now )

My pleasure too Rob. I've something is done right, I have no problem advertising it! And you've done it right!

The serial number of my player is 010101580.

Fot those who want to see some pictures : here's what I did with my car pre-empeg (yuck - you'll see why I say this), and here are some pics that are not categorised yet, but show the installation of the button hack.

I don't wish to sound anal but from looking at those pictures no ESD precautions were taken i.e. a wrist strap and bench mat. I've had workshop practices rammed down my throat for years now (which at times I've resented) but I think if it were me working on somebody else's expensive electronics, or my own for that matter, I wouldn't leave ESD to chance!

I guess that if it was possible to identify vulnerable players in either case then the serial number ranges would be mentioned in the FAQ?

It is better to visually identify the components than to guess which serial numbers might be the problem. Because even if they gave serial number ranges, there might be exceptions, so you'd still have to do the visual ID. So just do the visual ID.

Just remember that for those two particular issues, if your player says "rio" on the top, you don't need to worry.

The iron is an earthed TCP Weller that I have been using with 100% sucess for many years (about 20 or so). I kept (most of the time) the major comonents connected to their circuit earths. I repeatedly tapped the case or ground points with both hands and the iron tip.

The work bench where I would normally do all this is an earthed bench with a built in mat and grounding to the (earthed) CV system.

Don't forget what I said - if I knacker it in my possession, then I will pay to have it repaired...