In the car, often the road noise will make it to hard to hear the quiet tracks, so I normalize it to avoid having to adjust the volume when it plays, and then re-adjust after it is done for the next track.You guys seem to think that normalizing somehow magically makes all your music play at the same volume. It doesn't. All it does is measure the single loudest peak in your song, then adds an equal amount of volume to the whole song so that the peak really does hit 100 percent (or 98 percent or whatever the setting is).
The problem is that most CDs you buy are already normalized, so setting the normalization flag in your ripper rarely does anything at all.
You could normalize every album in your collection and they would still sound like they were all played at different volumes. The reason is that every album is produced/mastered differently, and they all have different dynamics (relationships between loud and quiet parts). There are other threads on the BBS which discuss this subject, known as "dynamic compression".
In the meantime, I unconditionally normalize all my albums to 100 percent, just in case I happen to run into a CD that's not already normalized. This has actually happened to me a couple of times. Recently I got my hands on an old CD that had some songs peaking in the 70% range. In that (rare) case, normalization is very useful and helpful.
Doug "tanstaafl" Burnside has been struggling with normalization recently because his collection is a mixture of classical and rock/techno. The classical stuff is extremely dynamic, which also makes it seem to have a relatively quiet percieved volume compared to the rock and techno stuff. One of the ideas he was toying with was to take the rock recordings and normalize them DOWN to a low percentage, while leaving the classical pieces at 100 percent. Doug, what did your final solution end up being?
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Tony Fabris