Jakob Nielsen's web site.

It's certainly "UGLY-ASS". I don't know that I'd go so far as to call a nearly undifferentiated list of links "usable", though.

Edward Tufte's web site.

Has the potential of being better, but what with all the blurbs at the top, taking up prime real estate, and the completely undifferentiated links down the right-hand side, it turns lousy pretty quickly. He's more of a graphic artist than a web designer, though.