Only way? I kind of like what my camera does. If I am using manual focus, as soon as I move the focus ring, the center of the image in the viewfinder is magnified eight times. This allows very precise focusing on whatever element of the picture is most important. When I stop moving the focus ring, the viewfinder reverts to normal view.

FWIW, I always use spot metering and (when in auto-focus mode) spot focusing. Another trick I nearly always use is to gauge exposure by what the viewfinder shows. When the shutter release is pressed halfway, the viewfinder image darkens (or lightens, as the case may be) to show what the actual exposure will look like (something a DSLR with optical viewfinder can't do) and locks the exposure. If that image in the viewfinder is not what I want, I move the spot focus/exposure point to a lighter or darker portion of the image and lock that exposure. I might do this three or four times (it takes less than a second per try) until the preview exposure looks like what I want, then press the shutter release all the way to actually take the picture. The metered exposure gets me in the ballpark, but I make the final adjustments by eye. Depending on what operational mode I am using (shutter preferred, aperture preferred, or program auto) the camera adjusts to compensate for how I want the picture to look. Sometimes I'll set the camera to do three-shot bursts, one under-, one normal-, and one over-exposed (according to what the light meter is telling it) in combination with the half-shutter-release compensation described above.

tanstaafl.